I first encountered this dish at St. John in London, where chef and owner Fergus Henderson popularized the phrase “snout-to-tail philosophy” for utilizing all parts of the whole pig. As foreign as the spleen may look, it is often used in liver pâtés and has a similar liver taste. But the spleen deserves attention in its own right. Admittedly, when I ordered the spleen at St. John, I did not like it. But when researching recipes ideas for Buster’s spleen, Henderson’s rolled spleen was the simplest and easiest to do, with ingredients I already had on hand. And I was surprised to find Buster’s rolled spleen was delightfully delicious. I encourage you to keep an open mind about the often ignored spleen—the result may surprise you as it did me.
Rolled Pig’s Spleen
Rolled pig’s spleen, inspired by Fergus Henderson’s snout-to-tail philosophy, is braised with bacon, sage, and stock. Serve it cool, like pâté, alongside onion and cornichons for a surprisingly delicious dish.
Lay the spleen out on your work surface and season with salt and pepper. Place 1 layer of bacon on top of the spleen, then top the bacon with several fresh sage leaves. Carefully roll up the spleen, with the bacon and sage on the inside, making the roll tight. Hold it in place with long toothpicks.
Set the rolled spleen in an ovenproof dish and cover with the stock.
Braise in a 350° oven for 60 minutes, then remove from the stock and let cool. To serve, slice the rolled spleen crosswise, each piece being a coil of spleen, bacon and sage. It is best eaten cool or at room temperate, like pâté, alongside thin slices of onion and cornichons.
Rosminah Brown is a Santa Barbara native who types fast and eats slow. She once jumped in the Neptune Pool at Hearst’s Castle. She is still upset that JR’s BBQ closed. She is always seeking a perfect, singular, exquisite bite of food.
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