Hibiscus Tonic Concoction

The Lowdown on a Hibiscus Celebration

Cocktail inspiration can come like a missive from multi-media. Take this issue’s Hibiscus Tonic Concoction, brought to mind by this odd mix: an obscure Welsh band, the film Barbie and my partner’s wise desire to consume less alcohol in a dark time when we might need to keep our oppositional wits sharp.

I’m going to assume few of you are fans—let alone have ever heard of—the delightful, tuneful, yet often rocking-to-the-point-of-anarchy band Los Campesinos!, but on their debut 2008 LP there’s the song “My Year in Lists” that opens thusly:

You said “send me stationery to make me horny”
So I always write you letters in multicolours
Decorating envelopes for foreplay
Damn extended metaphors, I get carried away

Challenge accepted, Campesinos. I will send you a letter vividly ruby with the star of the drink, from one of my favorite local purveyors. Theo Stephan has done all sorts of wonders with her peripatetic Global Gardens (now snugly settled in Santa Ynez), primarily distinct olive oils, but also cookbooks, classes and vinegars. Indeed the Barbielicious Sweet Hibiscus Golden Balsamic Vinegar started as a one-off but was so popular she had to bring it back, with all apologies/honors to Mattel and Greta Gerwig. It’s so pink it would make itself blush.

It’s also kind of a shrub premade for you—after all, what goes into a shrub but fruit/flower, vinegar and a hint of sugar? In addition to its sanguinary nature, hibiscus also is beloved as a way to make drinks (generally tea) the world over, thanks to its tang, perched between floral lift and something citrusy with a light splash of raspberry-ness. Also note while I keep using flower as a word to discuss hibiscus, what generally gets used in food production is the bloom’s sepals/calyx, the outer parts that protect the unopened flower bud. I would hate for any botanists to get their pistils in a twist due to my sloppy nomenclature.

While you don’t want to drink this vinegar as a shot (unless you’re fond of coughing until you turn as red as the product), it makes for a strong base if you come up with other ingredients to soften the mix. Some sweetener is necessary, hence the teaspoon of agave. And while the inclusion of yet more acid in the form of lime juice might seem counterproductive, it instead cuts the slightly syrupy nature of the vinegar while brightening the flavor, too. Together the lime and agave just round things out. And, yes, they lead you a bit towards the lovely land of the Margarita. That’s where you can opt to make this nonalcoholic or not. It works just fine without the not-even-a-fullshot of mezcal, but that smokiness makes a lilting, lingering counterpoint to the hibiscus, both on the nose and on the palate. Even with the liquor, you’d have to throw back a pitcher of these to get very drunk.

Last, but far from least, particularly as it’s most of the drink, is the tonic water. Fever-Tree is just a solid product to begin with, but their elderflower adds a certain magic of a spring day, bright blossoms of flowers, some citrus zest wisping on the wind. Given St-Germain, the most common elderflower liqueur, is often jokingly called bartender’s ketchup, as it magically seems to improve nearly every drink, here’s your chance to get some of those delicate flavors in without any extra ABV. (I must be honest and admit there’s a bit of sugar in this tonic product, too, so it provides a bit more sweetness, even with the bitter quinine.) Plus, a fizzy drink is always festive, especially when it’s this regal ruby color. What better time for a love letter than Valentine’s Day?