Rhubarb Upside Down Cake with Blood Orange Semifreddo and Pistachio Tuile at Bouchon
Winter’s Don’t-Miss-Dish
From the moment its doors opened on Bastille Day in 1998, Bouchon has been more than just a restaurant. It offered a taste of France along with an introduction to the brand-new “wine country cuisine” that we now know and love. It was also at the forefront of farm-to-table dining, reinforced by its longstanding offering of chef visits to the Santa Barbara Farmers Market, which still happen on Tuesdays and Saturdays.
Bouchon and its owner, Mitchell Sjerven, have always managed to capture the spirit of fine dining, and also the soul of a small, comforting neighborhood spot. Nightly and seasonal specials offer a taste of something new and different, as well as simple and pleasing. Bouchon has been a backdrop to our celebrations as well as tough times—offering us warmth, comfort and the promise of good company. Over the years, Bouchon has been one of the biggest champions of Santa Barbara County wines. Bouchon is, in many ways, a beloved friend to Santa Barbara.
Head Chef Vicken Tavitian loves cooking here, mostly because of the sense of community. “Taking folks to the farmers market, feeding regulars before their shows here in the arts district, pairing local wines … these allow me to connect with people and put my twist on the story.”
For winter, he was inspired to create this Rhubarb Upside Down Cake, topped with Blood Orange Semifreddo and Pistachio Tuile. There’s a unique allure to rhubarb; it’s strikingly tart and needs some care and creativity to nudge it into perfect balance that is both bold and delicate, jammy and floral. With a touch of sweetness and the pairing of blood orange and pistachio, Tavitian transforms rhubarb’s simple stalk into a delightful treat. This dessert delivers exactly what the heart needs this season.
Make the tuile by combining egg whites and sugar, then add flour for a paste, and a little vanilla extract. Lay this paste onto a baking sheet and spread out with a spoon. Sprinkle roughly chopped pistachios over the flattened dough and bake at 350°F until the edges are golden brown. This is a fragile cookie dough; don’t bake it too long. Let it cool, then break into large pieces.
To make the cake, make sure to get the most vibrant, reddest pieces of rhubarb, and cut them into 1-inch bits. Add them to a bowl with a little sugar, and let them macerate for about 15 minutes, until the juices come out.
While that sits, make a basic vanilla cake, folding in flour at the end, as gently as possible. Pour the rhubarb mix into the bottom of a greased cake pan and pour the batter over the top. Bake at 350°F uncovered for 35–40 minutes, until lightly browned. Flip the finished cake over onto a platter. Let it cool completely.
For the semifreddo, cut a blood orange in half; juice one half and save the rest of the fruit segments. In a double-boiler on low heat, slowly heat 2 egg yolks and ¼ cup sugar, adding 1 cup cold heavy cream a third at a time and whisking continuously until thick. Set this aside to come to room temperature.
When ready to serve, whip 1 cup heavy cream with a little blood orange juice and a little vanilla until soft peaks form. Fold this, a third at a time, into the egg mixture.
To serve, top a piece of cake with semifreddo and tuile, plus blood orange pieces and pistachio dust.
