Local Quail with Leeks and Ginger Soy Pomegranate Sauce at The Gathering Table
Fall’s Don’t-Miss Dish

The news around the Santa Ynez Valley is that Budi is back. Chef Budi Kazali, formerly of the Ballard Inn & Gathering Table and Ramen Kotori, has quietly opened the re-imagined Gathering Table along Mission Drive in the heart of Solvang.
For locals and visitors who know of Kazali, this is anything but quiet. Since the Ballard Inn closed in 2021 (then sold to new owners), folks have been waiting to see what Kazali would do next. This French-inspired bistro space is fresh, warm and inviting, and it is located in the former Succulent building. Heather Saarloos designed the interiors to match Kazali’s French- and Asian-inspired cooking, as well as his friendly, down-to earth personality. It’s a place for greeting neighbors, sharing plates, being festive and just hanging out.
“It’s been great so far,” Kazali beamed. “Friends, farmers, winemakers… they’ve come in several times a week. It’s a real community outpouring.”
For part deux of The Gathering Table, Kazali has partnered with a long-time fan of his cooking. Doug Cavanaugh says the thing he missed most was Kazali’s chicken sliders with their layered flavors. Cavanaugh is a restaurateur in Southern California who bought a ranch in Santa Ynez Valley and now supplies some produce from his property to the restaurant. It’s a symbiotic partnership that brings Kazali’s beloved Asian-French California food back to the valley.
This fall, find this quail appetizer on the menu. The quail comes from local ranch and farm, Motley Crew near Lompoc; the leeks are from Kazali’s long-time provider Shu Takikawa and The Garden of….. The shiitake mushrooms are local, and the pomegranates come from a friend’s garden—another benefit of Kazali knowing his neighbors.
To make the quail dish, start with leeks. One day before, take off the outer layer and soak in water to clean. Poach the white part of the leeks in seasoned water for 3 minutes. Drain and wrap tightly in plastic while hot, then refrigerate overnight.
Four to five hours before, remove legs from the quail. Cover them with a dry brine of salt, brown sugar, black peppercorn, coriander and thyme; leave on 4 hours.
Chop 2 shallots and 2 cloves garlic. Sauté these with grated ginger in olive oil over medium heat, then add thyme sprigs, soy sauce and black pepper. Add 1 cup red wine and bring to a boil; cook down to reduce by half. Add 2 cups pomegranate juice; cook down to reduce by half. Add 1 cup veal stock; cook down to syrup consistency, then strain.
Brush the dry brine off quail legs. Add 1 quart duck fat to saucepan (or bacon fat or olive oil) and heat to a gentle boil. Poach the legs along with shitake mushroom cap for 30–40 minutes, until tender. Drain, then cool.
Heat sauté pan with olive oil to medium-high heat (not too hot), add mushroom cap and legs to sear both sides, about 2 minutes per side. Remove from pan, and add the breasts, searing each side about 4 minutes, until cooked through. Season with salt and pepper.
Turn heat down to medium. Cut leeks into 1-inch pieces and remove plastic. Sear leeks gently on one of the cut sides, then add to the plate. Take breast off bone, add to plate with legs and mushroom. Sprinkle with pomegranate seeds, frisée salad or sliced endive, and a thyme blossom.