Summer’s Don’t-Miss Dish
Bread belongs to France.
No other place in the world can claim the flaky and chewy perfection of a croissant, a baguette and brioche. Here in Montecito, French baker Pierre-Yves Henry and his wife, Nelly Mousseau, opened their own little piece of France, giving us a slice of that perfection for breakfast and lunch five days a week (Beeosh.com).
For Henry, naturally fermented brioche is the only kind to make. That means sourcing local ingredients, encouraging wild yeasts to interact with the dough and exercising tons of patience during a long, slow fermentation—about three days per batch. The benefits? Tastier, softer, less sugar, more probiotics, less acidity and easier to digest. To make the sourdough starter, he stays as local as possible: Blue Ridge honey from Ojai wildflowers, plum or pear juice from The Farm Cart in Carpinteria or the Montecito farmers market along with organic malted flour from California. Montecito plums make the best starter; they are the plumpest and juiciest Henry’s ever had.
Creating a wild sourdough starter involves feeding, stirring, kneading and waiting, so Henry recommends getting the starter from him if you want to make your own sourdough. Just give him a day or so notice, then pick up the starter on the day you want to make the loaf.
To make 2 loaves, combine 500 grams flour, 300 grams eggs (about 6 eggs), 45 grams sugar, 10 grams salt, 100 grams sourdough starter and 20 grams yeast. Mix until consistent. You will see strings in the dough and it will come off the edge of the bowl. Beat 250 grams softened butter into dough and mix for 4–5 minutes. Wrap the dough and store in refrigerator for 8–10 hours. Then divide into 2 parts and put into buttered loaf pans. Let them rise for 2 hours in a warm area. Finally, put an egg wash on top and score with a knife, then bake at 350° for 25–30 minutes, or until browned.
