Begin the Sanguine

Blushing for Blood Orange Love

Winter means citrus in Santa Barbara, and there’s none more delightful than the blood orange. While the rind of a blood orange doesn’t always hint at the maroon hues inside (although some varietals do have lovely red streaks and flecks on their skin), that darker f lesh signals the intensity you’ll sense in the scent and flavor. Think of blood oranges as a way to orange up, bigger and better and bolder and redder.

That means their juice stars in cocktails. So what could be better than a red-going-to-pink cocktail for Valentine’s Day? Yes, it’s my second year in a row for a winter cocktail honoring February 14, but if you try one of these the day you pick up this issue, you’ll be making them all season, for if you’re not in love with a particular person, you will be head over heels for the drink. The Begin the Sanguine Cocktail gets to nod to Cole Porter, more sophisticated times—ones with proper drinks—and the sanguinary citrus at its heart.

This is a very easy preparation, too, so you’ll have plenty of time left over to do more important things—maybe whip up some swordfish or double-cut pork chops bathed in a blood orange reduction, maybe be a witty conversationalist, maybe gaze into your lover’s eyes—instead of fussing over drinkmaking. Because, if you care to be reductive, this drink is sort of just a glorified Margarita (tequila, citrus, orange-ish liqueur). Of course, that’s being reductive like calling the Mona Lisa a painting or Frank Sinatra a crooner or the Bradbury Building in LA an office complex.

First, there’s the fresh-squeezed blood orange juice, and here’s hoping you or your neighbor has a tree or you can score some at the farmers market. Warning: That red color likes to find your clothes, so wear an apron, squeeze carefully and wash down wherever you get the juice on—unless you were planning on dying your kitchen counter crimson. As for why you do need to bother with the bit of lime juice, too, it helps balance and add some sour to the drink, so don’t omit it. More layers = more flavors.

Second, it’s fun to use a joven tequila for the drink. Most of the tequila we consume—and, of course, only imbibe the ones that are 100% agave; look out for mixtos—tend to be aged reposados and anejos. Joven, which means young in Spanish, is just that: kind of the white lightning of agave as it’s seen no barrel time. Although, to cut their sassiness a bit, producers tend to blend a bit of aged tequila, too. For instance, LA’s new Viva XXXII makes a vivid, affordable joven that has some of their anejo blended in. Instead of vanilla and caramel from aging, you get a stronger pepper attack, plus more citrus—perfect for this drink that’s an homage to all things orange-lemon-lime. Even better, XXXII donates 10% from each bottle to fight animal cruelty, and that will win you points with your Valentine, especially if their name is Fido or Muffy.

Third, you’re getting to use ITALICUS Rosolio di Bergamotto, which won the “Best New Spirit/Cocktail Ingredient” Spirited Award at the 2017 Tales of the Cocktail conference. (That they use all caps for something with italic in its name might drive your proofreader friends crazy, by the way.) How hip are you, cool Valentine date, pouring a brand new liqueur, lauded by the highest judges in the land, and it’s from cosí romantico Italia?

It’s important to note that while the liqueur is a rosolio, it strays pretty far from the traditional rose-based category, and the bergamot is much more the highlighted flavor. Bergamot, a green-skinned orange, famed from Calabria, packs a pungent kick used in everything from Earl Grey tea to many perfumes and colognes. Some bitterness lingers in the finish, but it’s mostly sweet and citrusy—a perfect addition to add further citrus complexity to the drink. Plus, Italian style points—the column-shaped bottle is a knockout. Show your Valentine what good taste and style you have!

Finally, to garnish the drink it’s time to break out your channel peeler. That’s the one that comes on the zester, the single little tooth that allows you to carve what ends up looking like a heavy shoelace of skin from your fruit. This is easiest to do by putting the blood orange on a surface and slowly turning it so the peeler does its job—go slowly or you’ll end up with a bunch of little nubs. The goal is to get two 3-inch pieces or so. Then take each one and gently tie one knot in it. It’s an attractive presentation, and perhaps, just perhaps, you need to suggest something to your Valentine’s date.